Bostitch Fasteners for Framing, Flooring, Trim and More

The best Bostitch fastener depends on the tool and the material: use framing nails for structural framing, flooring cleats or staples for compatible wood-flooring nailers, and finish nails or narrow-crown staples for trim and cabinetry. Match the fastener’s type, length, diameter or crown, and collation to the exact tool model and the job—not just to the Bostitch name on the tool.

How Bostitch fasteners are organized

Bostitch sells or has sold fasteners for distinct classes of pneumatic and cordless tools. A fastener that fits one Bostitch nailer may not fit another, even when both are used for carpentry. Tool manuals and product specifications are the dependable sources for compatibility; the fastener package should also state the tool or fastener series it suits.

Fasteners differ in several ways that matter in use:

• Type: nails, flooring cleats, staples, brads, and pins perform different jobs.
• Size: length, shank diameter, head style, and—in staples—the crown width must suit the tool and material.
• Collation: nails may be joined in strips or coils, while staples are formed into strips. The angle and material of a strip or coil must match the magazine.
• Finish: bright, coated, or corrosion-resistant fasteners are intended for different environments and appearance requirements.

Do not assume that a fastener is compatible because its length and general shape look right. The wrong collation angle, shank, or crown can prevent loading, cause jams, or produce unsafe and unreliable driving.

Best fasteners by job

• Framing: use the specified framing nails for the framing nailer. Depending on the tool, these may be clipped-head or full-round-head nails in a particular strip angle, or collated coil nails. Choose length and shank style for the lumber, connection, and applicable building plans or requirements.
• Subflooring: a framing nailer and approved nails can be used where the installation instructions call for them. Some crews use a compatible flooring or subfloor nailer. Follow the subfloor and tool instructions; fastener spacing and type are separate from merely finding a nail that fits.
• Hardwood flooring: use flooring cleats or flooring staples specifically approved for the flooring nailer and flooring thickness. Cleats and staples are not interchangeable in every tool or installation. The flooring manufacturer’s instructions should determine the correct fastener and installation method.
• Finish trim and casing: use finish nails sized for the finish nailer. A longer, heavier nail may be appropriate for fastening trim to framing, while delicate trim may call for a smaller fastener to reduce splitting. Confirm the tool’s supported gauge and length range.
• Cabinet backs, upholstery, or light assembly: use staples only when the material and application call for them, and match the staple crown and leg length to the stapler. Narrow-crown staples are commonly used in woodworking applications, but they are not a substitute for structural nails.
• Small decorative trim: a brad nailer or pin nailer can leave a smaller hole than a finish nailer, but a small fastener has less holding capacity. Use it only where the joint design and material make that adequate.

How to choose the right size and finish

Start with the tool’s model number and manual. Look for the accepted fastener type, size range, collation, and any restrictions on head or shank style. Then check the project instructions to establish what the joint needs. A package that fits the tool does not automatically make its fastener suitable for a structural connection or a particular flooring system.

Length should account for the material being fastened and the surface the fastener must enter. Too short may give inadequate holding; too long can emerge through the back or damage wiring, plumbing, or finished surfaces. Diameter and shank design also affect holding and splitting. If a plan or manufacturer specifies a fastener, do not substitute based only on matching length.

Choose finish for exposure. Bright steel is generally intended for dry interior use. Coated fasteners may be intended to improve performance in particular applications, but coatings are not all equivalent. For damp, exterior, treated-wood, or otherwise corrosive conditions, verify that the fastener is approved for the material and exposure. Stainless steel or hot-dip galvanized fasteners may be specified for some environments; consult the project requirements rather than assuming any coated nail is suitable.

Comparing nails, cleats, staples, and brads

These fasteners are not simply different sizes of the same product. Framing nails are designed for nailers that drive relatively large nails into framing lumber. Flooring cleats have a profile intended for flooring installation and are driven by a compatible flooring tool. Staples have two legs joined by a crown; their holding behavior and visible mark differ from a nail. Brads and pins are smaller fasteners used where a less conspicuous hole is useful, not where a heavy structural connection is needed.

Likewise, a flooring staple is not automatically better than a cleat, or vice versa. The appropriate choice depends on the flooring product, the installation instructions, the tool, and the substrate. Using the wrong fastening method can affect movement, noise, or the flooring manufacturer’s warranty. Confirm the recommended fastener before beginning, especially when changing from one flooring product or tool to another.

Common fit and installation problems

Jams, misfeeds, bent fasteners, and proud or overdriven heads can result from incompatible or damaged fasteners, incorrect pressure settings, an unsuitable work angle, or a tool that needs maintenance. A common misconception is that any fastener from the same brand will fit any of its tools; compatibility is determined by the tool specification, not the brand alone.

• Compare the fastener package with the tool manual, including collation angle and size range.
• Use clean, undamaged strips or coils; do not force a mismatched load into the magazine.
• Set air pressure or depth controls according to the tool manual and test on scrap of the same material.
• If the fastener bends or splits wood, check size, material, angle, and tool settings before continuing.
• Disconnect the air supply or remove the battery as directed before clearing a jam or servicing the tool.

Safety and storage

Fasteners are projectiles when driven, so wear safety glasses and follow the tool maker’s operating instructions. Keep hands and other body parts away from the nose, never point the tool at anyone, and avoid firing into areas where hidden wiring or plumbing may be present. Keep the tool disconnected when loading, clearing a jam, or leaving it unattended, following its manual. Use hearing protection when the tool or work environment warrants it.

Store fasteners dry and in their labeled packaging. Rust, damaged collation, or mixed fastener types can cause feeding problems and may compromise the result. Keep them away from children, and dispose of damaged or loose fasteners safely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any brand of fastener in a Bostitch nailer?
Not necessarily. A third-party fastener may work if it matches every specification in the tool manual, but brand, length, and general shape alone do not establish compatibility.

What Bostitch fasteners should I use for framing?
Use the framing nail type, collation, and size listed for your exact nailer, then confirm that the fastener meets the framing plans and project requirements.

Are flooring cleats and staples interchangeable?
No. A flooring tool may accept only one type, and the flooring maker may specify a particular method. Check both sets of instructions before selecting a fastener.

What is the difference between a finish nail and a brad?
Finish nails are generally larger than brads and can provide more holding power, while brads leave a smaller hole for lighter trim work. Use the size supported by the tool and suitable for the joint.

Why do my fasteners jam or sit proud?
Check for the wrong size or collation, damaged fasteners, unsuitable pressure or depth settings, and an incorrect work angle. Follow the manual and test adjustments on scrap before resuming.

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