Slicer Tricks to Speed Up 3D Printing Prototypes

To speed up 3D printing prototypes, the most effective slicer tricks are increasing layer height, reducing infill density, and using lower print speeds for non-visible parts. These settings directly cut print time without sacrificing the functional integrity of most prototype parts.

How Slicer Settings Affect Print Time

Print time in FDM (fused deposition modeling) is mostly determined by the volume of material extruded and the speed of the print head. The slicer converts a 3D model into layers, and each layer consists of perimeters (walls), infill, and top/bottom solid layers. The total time is the sum of the time to deposit each line of plastic. Increasing layer height means fewer layers for the same height, so the print head makes fewer passes. Reducing infill density means less plastic inside the part, so fewer lines are printed. Print speed controls how fast the head moves while extruding, but pushing it too high can cause under-extrusion or ringing.

Layer Height: The Biggest Time Saver

Layer height is the thickness of each printed slice. A standard 0.2 mm layer is a good balance for prototypes. If you switch from 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm, you halve the number of layers, cutting print time nearly in half (assuming same speeds). For non-cosmetic prototypes, 0.28 mm or even 0.32 mm (with a 0.4 mm nozzle) is often acceptable. The surface will show visible layer lines, but for fit testing or mechanical checks, that’s usually fine. Remember that the maximum layer height is about 80% of the nozzle diameter; with a 0.4 mm nozzle, that’s 0.32 mm.

Infill: Less Is Often Enough

Infill is the internal lattice structure that gives a part strength without making it solid. A 100% infill uses the most plastic and time. For prototypes that only need to hold their shape, 15-20% infill is typical. For parts that will be handled or bear light loads, 30-40% is safer. You can also use infill patterns that print faster: ‘lines’ or ‘grid’ are quicker than ‘gyroid’ or ‘cubic’ because they have shorter continuous paths. If you need strength in one direction, use a higher infill percentage but only in that zone (using modifiers in the slicer) rather than the whole part.

Print Speed and Acceleration

Print speed is set in the slicer, but the printer’s acceleration and jerk settings also matter. A high speed with low acceleration may never reach the set speed on short moves. For prototypes, you can often increase the default print speed from 50 mm/s to 70-80 mm/s for infill and inner walls, while keeping outer walls slower (40-50 mm/s) for better surface quality. Also, enable ‘outer wall wipe’ or ‘coasting’ to reduce blobs, but don’t use them if they add time. Many slicers have a ‘draft’ or ‘fast’ profile that already balances these settings.

Other Slicer Tricks to Reduce Time

• Skip or reduce supports: Orient the part to minimize overhangs, or use ‘tree supports’ which are faster to remove and print less material.
• Use fewer perimeters: For non-structural prototypes, 2 perimeters instead of 3 can save time.
• Disable ‘ironing’: Ironing smooths the top surface but adds a lot of time. Turn it off for prototypes.
• Set ‘combing’ mode: Combing makes the nozzle travel inside the part instead of crossing walls, reducing retractions and travel time.
• Print multiple parts at once: If you have several small prototypes, printing them together on the same bed can be faster than printing them separately because the bed only heats up once.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

One common mistake is increasing print speed too much, which causes ringing (visible artifacts) or under-extrusion. Another is reducing infill too much, making the part too weak. Also, don’t forget that layer height affects the strength of the part in the Z direction; a 0.3 mm layer may delaminate more easily than a 0.2 mm layer. Always do a small test print to check the new settings before committing to a long print.

When to Use a Fast Profile vs. a Quality Profile

For initial design iterations, use a fast profile: 0.28 mm layer height, 15% infill, 70 mm/s print speed, and no supports. This gets you a physical part in the shortest time. Once the design is finalized and you need a smooth surface for presentation or customer review, switch to a quality profile: 0.12 mm layer height, 30% infill, 50 mm/s speed, and maybe ironing. The time difference is significant, but it’s worth it for the final version.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does a larger nozzle always print faster?

Not always, but a 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm nozzle can print faster because it can lay down more plastic per line. However, you lose detail and may need to adjust your model’s minimum feature size. For prototypes with large flat areas, a bigger nozzle is a great time-saver.

Can I use the same slicer settings for all materials?

No. PLA prints fast and cool, but PETG and ABS need slower speeds and higher temperatures. If you use the same profile for PETG, you may get stringing or poor layer adhesion. Always check the recommended settings for each material.

How much time can I actually save with these tricks?

Switching from 0.1 mm to 0.2 mm layer height can halve the time. Reducing infill from 100% to 20% can save another 30-40%. Combined, you can often cut print time by 60-70% for the same part.

Is it better to use ‘spiral vase’ mode for prototypes?

Spiral vase mode prints the outer wall in a continuous spiral, which is very fast, but it only works for models with a single wall and no top. It’s useful for thin-walled containers, but not for most mechanical prototypes.

Does print time depend on the slicer software?

Yes, different slicers have different default speeds and path planning. Some slicers are better at optimizing travel moves. But the fundamental settings (layer height, infill, speed) are universal.

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in t | Print time | min | 120 | 0
in l | Layer height | mm | 0.2 | 0.05
in d | Infill density | % | 20 | 0
out speed | Time saved vs 0.1mm/100% | % | (1 - (0.1/l)*(0.2+0.8*d/100)/(0.2+0.8*20/100))*100 | 1