Forest Time Lapse: Photographing a Tree & Its Surroundings

This guide walks you through capturing a forest time lapse centered on a single tree, showing how its surroundings change over hours, days, or even months. You’ll learn to choose a location, set up your camera for consistent framing, and manage the technical settings that keep your sequence smooth. By the end, you’ll have a clear workflow to produce a compelling, stable time lapse of a tree and its environment.

What You’ll Need

• A camera with manual exposure controls (DSLR, mirrorless, or even a smartphone with a manual camera app).
• A sturdy tripod that won’t shift in wind or soft ground.
• An intervalometer (built-in or external) to trigger shots at set intervals.
• Fully charged batteries and spare memory cards.
• Lens cloth and rain cover (plastic bag or dedicated cover) for weather protection.
• Optional: ND filter to slow shutter speed for motion blur in daylight.

Step-by-Step

1. Scout a location. Find a tree that stands out from its surroundings—a lone oak in a meadow, a pine on a ridge, or a maple in a clearing. Make sure the tree is visually interesting from your intended angle, and that there’s enough open sky or moving elements (clouds, grass, water) around it.
2. Check the forecast. For a single session (1-3 hours), look for partly cloudy skies to add motion. For a longer project (days or weeks), avoid periods of heavy rain or extreme wind that could shift your camera or damage gear.
3. Set up your tripod firmly. Spread the legs wide, press them into the ground, and hang a weight (like a bag) from the center hook if available. Ensure the head is level—use the bubble level or a phone app.
4. Frame the shot. Compose so the tree is off-center (rule of thirds) and include foreground elements like rocks or ferns to add depth. Leave some headroom for clouds. Lock the tripod head tightly.
5. Switch to manual mode. Set your camera to M (manual). This prevents exposure shifts between frames. Choose an aperture of f/8 to f/11 for good depth of field, and set ISO to its base value (e.g., 100 or 200).
6. Set shutter speed and interval. For a smooth time lapse, the interval (time between shots) should be 2-4 times the shutter speed. For example, if shutter is 1/250s, an interval of 2 seconds is fine. For slower motion (clouds drifting), use 5-10 seconds. For day-to-night transitions, use a longer interval (10-30 seconds).
7. Use an intervalometer. Set it to take a photo every X seconds. If your camera lacks a built-in intervalometer, use an external one or a phone app that can trigger the shutter at set intervals.
8. Lock focus. Autofocus can hunt between shots. Switch to manual focus and set it to the hyperfocal distance or focus on the tree trunk. If you must use autofocus, lock it with a half-press or use back-button focus, then disable AF.
9. Disable image stabilization. Turn off IS/VR on your lens or camera body, as it can cause slight shifts when the camera is on a tripod.
10. Take a test shot. Review the histogram. Ensure highlights aren’t blown and shadows aren’t completely black. Adjust exposure if needed.
11. Start the sequence. Begin the intervalometer. For a 10-second interval, shoot for at least 30 minutes to get 180 frames—enough for about 6 seconds of video at 30fps.
12. Monitor the first few minutes. Check that the camera is still firing and the framing hasn’t shifted. Then step away to avoid causing vibrations.

Common Mistakes

• Changing settings mid-sequence. Auto exposure (Aperture Priority) can cause flicker. Always use manual mode.
• Too short an interval. If the interval is too short, the shutter may still be open when the next trigger fires, causing missed shots. Keep interval at least 2x the shutter speed.
• Ignoring battery life. A long time lapse can drain batteries. Use a dummy battery with an external power source if possible.
• Not securing the tripod. Wind or ground settling can shift the frame. Weigh down the tripod and check it periodically.
• Forgetting to turn off autofocus. The camera may focus on a moving branch or cloud, ruining the sequence.

Tips

• Shoot in RAW. This gives you more flexibility to correct exposure and white balance in post-processing, especially for day-to-night transitions.
• Use an ND filter for motion blur. In bright daylight, a 6-stop or 10-stop ND filter allows slower shutter speeds (1/15s or slower) to blur leaves and clouds, creating a dreamy effect.
• Plan for a longer project. For a month-long time lapse, use a solar-powered setup and a weatherproof housing. Check the camera weekly to clean the lens and adjust framing if the tree grows.
• Include a reference point. A fixed object like a rock or bench helps viewers notice subtle changes in light and shadow.
• Consider a panning time lapse. Some tripod heads allow slow panning, but this adds complexity. Start with a static shot.

Troubleshooting

• Flicker in the final video. This happens when exposure varies slightly. In post, use a deflicker tool (e.g., in LRTimelapse or After Effects). To prevent it, shoot in manual and use a lens with a manual aperture ring if possible.
• Camera stopped firing. Check battery level, memory card space, and the intervalometer connection. If the camera overheated, let it cool down and restart.
• Framing shifted. If the tripod moved, you can crop and stabilize in post (e.g., using Warp Stabilizer in Premiere). For future, use a more robust tripod and check the ground.
• Exposure changes drastically (sun setting). For day-to-night, you need a ramping technique—gradually increasing ISO or shutter speed. This requires a dedicated intervalometer with ramping features or post-processing software like LRTimelapse.
• Rain on the lens. Use a rain cover and a lens hood. If water spots appear, stop the sequence, clean the lens, and restart—though you’ll have a gap in the footage.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many photos do I need for a time lapse?

For 10 seconds of video at 30fps, you need 300 frames. At 24fps, 240 frames. At 10-second intervals, that’s 50 minutes of shooting.

What interval should I use for clouds moving?

For slow-moving clouds, 5-10 seconds works well. For fast-moving clouds, 2-5 seconds. For stars, 20-30 seconds (with a wider aperture and high ISO).

Can I use my smartphone for this?

Yes, many phones have a time lapse mode. Use a tripod, lock exposure/focus (tap and hold), and set the interval if available. The quality may be lower, but it’s a good start.

How do I keep the camera powered for a day-long time lapse?

Use a dummy battery connected to a USB power bank or AC adapter. For outdoor projects, consider a solar panel and a battery pack.

What is the best time of day to shoot?

Golden hours (sunrise/sunset) give dramatic light, but a full day captures more change. Overcast days reduce harsh shadows and flicker.

How do I assemble the frames into a video?

Use software like Adobe Premiere, DaVinci Resolve, or even QuickTime Player (on Mac) to import the image sequence and export as a video. Set the frame rate to 24 or 30 fps.

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