Cut Trees Codes: Meaning & How to Use

Cut trees codes are shorthand labels used by forestry and logging crews to mark which trees are to be cut, which are to be left, and how each cut should be made. You enter a tree’s diameter and species group, and the calculator returns the recommended stump height and felling notch angle for a safe, efficient cut.

Formula

The calculator uses two simple rules of thumb from professional logging practice. The recommended stump height is 15% of the tree’s diameter at breast height (DBH), which keeps the stump low enough to waste little wood but high enough to avoid splitting and to give the sawyer leverage. The felling notch angle is set to 70 degrees, the standard open-face notch that gives the best control over the direction of the fall.

Variables:

• d – tree diameter at breast height, measured in centimeters (cm) at 1.3 meters above the ground.
• s – species group: 1 for hardwoods (oak, maple, beech) or 2 for softwoods (pine, spruce, fir).
• stump – recommended stump height in centimeters, computed as d × 0.15.
• notch – felling notch angle in degrees, set to 70° for all species.

Worked Example

Using the default values: a hardwood tree (s = 1) with a diameter of 30 cm.

1. Measure the diameter at breast height: d = 30 cm.
2. Compute stump height: 30 × 0.15 = 4.5 cm.
3. Set the notch angle: 70° (standard open-face notch).
4. Result: recommended stump height is 4.5 cm, notch angle is 70°.

The calculator outputs the same values: stump = 4.5 cm (rounded to 1 decimal) and notch = 70°.

What Are Cut Trees Codes?

Cut trees codes are a visual language painted or flagged on tree trunks before a harvest. They tell the feller (the person cutting the tree) exactly what to do without needing a verbal conversation. Common codes include a single slash meaning “cut this tree,� an X meaning “leave this tree,� a dot or small circle meaning “cut for firewood,� and a horizontal line meaning “cut high for a wildlife stump.� Colors also carry meaning: orange often means “cut,� blue means “leave,� and yellow may indicate a boundary or a tree to protect.

These codes are part of a broader system called “tree marking,� which foresters use to plan a harvest. A forester walks the stand, assesses each tree, and applies the appropriate mark. The feller then follows the marks, which speeds up work and reduces miscommunication. In some regions, the codes are standardized by a forestry agency; in others, each crew develops its own local shorthand. The key is that everyone on the crew knows what each mark means before work begins.

How Cut Trees Codes Work

The system works because it is simple and visible. Marks are applied at chest height on the side facing the direction the tree should fall, so the feller can see them from the operating position. Paint is the most common medium because it lasts for months and is visible in low light. Flagging tape is used for temporary marks or when paint is not available.

Typical marks and their meanings:

• Single slash (/) – cut this tree.
• X – leave this tree standing.
• Dot or small circle – cut for firewood or biomass.
• Horizontal line – cut high, leaving a tall stump for wildlife habitat.
• Double slash (//) – cut but be careful; the tree has a defect or is near a hazard.
• Arrow – indicates the intended felling direction.

In addition to the paint marks, the feller uses the tree’s lean, wind direction, and surrounding obstacles to choose the actual felling direction. The codes are a plan, not a guarantee; the feller always makes the final judgment call for safety.

How to Choose the Right Code

Choosing the correct code depends on the goal of the harvest. If the objective is maximum timber volume, you mark the largest, healthiest trees for cutting and leave the smaller ones to grow. If the goal is wildlife habitat, you leave certain species or trees with cavities. If the goal is fire prevention, you may cut all understory trees and leave the larger canopy trees.

Steps to choose a code:

1. Define the management objective (timber, wildlife, fire, recreation).
2. Walk the stand and assess each tree’s species, size, health, and form.
3. Decide which trees meet the objective and which do not.
4. Apply the appropriate paint mark or flag at chest height.
5. Record the marks on a map or in a log for the crew.

For a homeowner or small woodlot owner, the choice is simpler: mark the trees you want to cut and leave the rest. But even a simple cut/no-cut system benefits from clear codes to avoid accidental cutting of a prized specimen.

Common Mistakes and Misconceptions

A common mistake is assuming that all crews use the same codes. In reality, codes vary by region, company, and even by individual forester. Always confirm the meaning of each mark with the crew before starting work. Another mistake is marking trees at eye level but not on the side facing the felling direction; if the mark is on the wrong side, the feller may not see it until it is too late.

A frequent misconception is that the stump height should be as low as possible. While a low stump wastes less wood, a stump that is too low can cause the saw to hit dirt or rocks, dulling the chain and creating a safety hazard. The 15% rule is a balance between wood recovery and safe cutting. Another misconception is that the notch angle must be exactly 90 degrees. The open-face notch at 70 degrees is preferred because it provides a wider opening for the tree to fall into, giving better control and reducing the risk of the tree kicking back.

Safety and Legal Considerations

Cutting trees is dangerous work. Always wear a hard hat, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps. Ensure the chainsaw is sharp and in good working condition. Check for overhead hazards like dead branches (widow-makers) and for power lines. Never cut alone; have a spotter nearby. If you are not experienced, hire a professional.

In many areas, a permit is required to cut trees, especially on public land or in protected zones. Check with local forestry authorities before marking or cutting. On private land, you still need to be aware of any easements, wetland buffers, or endangered species protections. The codes themselves are not legal documents, but they are part of a harvest plan that may need to be approved.

Alternatives to Paint Codes

Paint and flagging are the traditional methods, but there are alternatives. GPS mapping on a tablet or phone can show exactly which trees to cut, with a dot on a map. This is useful for large operations where the feller can see the screen in the cab of a harvester. Another alternative is using a colored ribbon tied around the trunk, which is quick but less durable than paint. Some operations use a handheld barcode scanner attached to a tree tag, linking the tree to a database with its species, diameter, and cutting instructions. These digital methods are more expensive but reduce the risk of misreading a paint mark.

For a small woodlot, a simple chalk mark or a piece of tape is often enough, but for a commercial harvest, the paint system remains the most reliable and cost-effective method because it is visible from a distance and does not require batteries or a signal.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does a blue mark on a tree mean?

In most marking systems, blue means “leave this tree.� It is the opposite of orange, which typically means “cut.� However, always confirm with the local forester because some regions use blue for “cut� in special circumstances, such as marking trees for a wildlife corridor.

Can I use cut trees codes on my own property?

Yes, you can use any marking system you like on your own land, as long as you understand it and your crew understands it. The important thing is consistency. If you use a slash for “cut,� make sure everyone knows that a slash means “cut� and not “leave.�

How long does tree paint last?

Tree marking paint is formulated to last for several years, typically 2 to 5 years, depending on the brand and weather conditions. It is designed to resist fading and peeling, but it will eventually wear off, so marks should be applied shortly before the harvest.

What is the difference between a notch and a back cut?

The notch is a wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The back cut is made on the opposite side, slightly higher than the notch, to create a hinge that guides the fall. The notch angle (70 degrees in this calculator) is the angle between the two faces of the wedge.

Why is stump height important?

Stump height affects wood utilization, safety, and regrowth. A stump that is too high wastes wood that could be sold. A stump that is too low can cause the saw to hit the ground, dulling the chain and increasing the risk of kickback. The 15% rule gives a practical balance.

Do I need a permit to cut trees?

It depends on where you live and the type of land. On private land, you usually do not need a permit for personal use, but you may need one for commercial logging or if the land is in a protected zone. On public land, a permit is almost always required. Check with your local forestry office before cutting.

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in d | Tree diameter | cm | 30 | 0
in s | Species group | Hardwood=1, Softwood=2 | 1 | 0
out stump | Recommended stump height | cm | d * 0.15 | 1
out notch | Felling notch angle | degrees | 70 | 0